Heating
Maintaining a
constant temperature and protecting against cold snaps and frost is crucial for
successful gardening. In cold,
clear or windy weather your nursery may need more heat than is provided by solar
radiation; especially at night. Heat
can be supplied using electricity, natural gas or propane, fuel oil, solar
energy or kerosene. Your greenhouse
can also be connected to your home heating system. Natural gas or propane is one
of the most cost-effective ways of maintaining a constant temperature in your
nursery. If natural gas is available in the home, plumbing into the existing
line saves considerable cost over a new meter and gas line. If natural gas is
not available, check with a local propane gas company for cost and availability.
Determine if the company provides a storage tank free or if it can be rented or
purchased. Consult the company to determine the tank size appropriate for the
greenhouse.
A variety of gas unit heaters are
available to heat hobby greenhouses. Unit heaters burn gas in a firebox, the
heated air rises through the inside of a thin-walled heat exchanger on the way
to the exhaust chimney. A fan draws air in from outside, across the heat
exchanger, and out into the greenhouse. Thus, most of the heat is removed from
the exhaust before it exits the structure. The exhaust chimney must be
sufficiently tall to maintain an upward draft and extend above the greenhouse
roof. An 8- to 12-foot chimney is usually sufficient. All open-flame heaters
must be vented to the outside and given a fresh air supply for complete
combustion. Be sure to provide fresh air circulation to prevent carbon-dioxide
build up.
In larger greenhouses, a plastic tube
or ducting system may be needed to distribute the heat evenly within the house.
The system is made of a perforated polyethylene tube or plastic and wire
ducting, suspended overhead in the ridge and extending the length of the
greenhouse. A fan connected to the tube blows warm air from the heater into the
tube for greenhouse distribution. This system can also be used for circulating
internal air when heating or cooling is not required.
A variety of electric heaters can also
be used. Those available in department stores and home centers are usually only
adequate in the smallest greenhouse for starting seedlings in the spring. Larger
units can be purchased, but operating them can be costly.
Heater size for a
given greenhouse and geographic location depends on the surface area of the
greenhouse and the temperature difference between the inside and outside of the
greenhouse. To determine the size heating system you need, calculate the total
surface area of the greenhouse covering. Then determine the difference between
the minimum expected outside temperature during winter in your area and the
maximum night temperature you wish to maintain. Multiply the greenhouse surface
area by the temperature difference by the heat loss conversion factor in Table 1
for the appropriate covering. The answer will be in BTUs per hour. Most heaters
are rated in this unit. Many greenhouse supply or construction companies can
help you determine the proper size heater for your situation.
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Table
1. Heat Loss Factor for
a Small Hobby Greenhouse
|
|
Greenhouse
covering
|
Heat
loss (calm area)
|
Heat
loss (windy area)
|
|
Polyethylene
or fiberglass
|
1.2
|
1.4
|
|
Glass
|
1.5
|
1.8
|
|
Double-layer
plastic
|
0.8
|
1.0
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Cooling
One of the best ways
to cool a greenhouse in the summer is to reduce the amount of light in the
nursery. The reduction depends on the heat load in the greenhouse and the
vegetation’s light requirements. Greenhouse
whitewash, shade cloth, screens of wood or aluminum, or Venetian blinds can be
used for shading. Greenhouse whitewash is a special kind of latex paint that is
diluted in water and sprayed on the covering surface. It is designed to be
applied in the spring and gradually degrade by the action of rain and sun so
that little remains by fall. Shade cloth is a black, green, or white woven
fabric of polypropylene, cloth or aluminum weave that is laid over the outside
of the covering. Shade cloth can be purchased with various weave densities that
result in 20 to 80 percent light reduction. For most hobby greenhouse
applications, 30 to 50 percent light reduction should be sufficient.
Another method for cooling a greenhouse
is evaporative cooling, which relies on air passing through a porous pad
saturated with water. The evaporating water removes heat from the greenhouse.
There are two types of evaporative coolers: fan-and-pad systems and misting
systems. Fan-and-pad systems consist of a cellulose pad at least 2 feet tall and
extending the length of one wall, with water supplied from the top to keep the
pad wet during operation. Fans are installed in the opposite wall to draw
outside air through the pads. Misting
systems can serve two functions, the help cool the greenhouse by extruding
clouds of mist that evaporates and cools the greenhouse space.
At the same time they keep humidity levels up for vegetation that likes a
wetter climate. They usually
consist of irrigation hose with mister emitters that are controlled by an
actuated valve controlled by a thermostat.
Generally,
heating, ventilating, and cooling are controlled by thermostats located close to
the center of the greenhouse at plant level. For accurate control, be sure the
thermostat is shaded from direct sunlight.